Monday, November 23, 2009

Vergelegen

Vergelegen V, this Cabernet of great distinction would compare favorably with some of the best wines I know. It is from a winery founded in 1700 in South Africa ... Who would think?

I am at Woods, an al fresco dining area behind The Wine Company of Dempsey Road, plunged in darkness. The noises of crickets and croaking frogs surround this place cloaked in the heavy humid mist that has settled over Singapore after a long and violent tropical storm.

The label in the back of the bottle informs me that Vergelegen means a place "far away" and that it was granted to the governor of the Cape in 1700. It reminds me of what I learned about wine making in South Africa from a chance encounter in a lodge in New Zealand in October last year. French Huguenots who had sailed to Cape Town asked The Dutch governor for the right to settle in the country. The governor sent them far away from the Cape so that they would not cause any trouble. It must have been Vergelegen ... and this is how wine making started in South Africa.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Brad Mehldau, Jazz pianist extraordinaire

One can make amazing finds at Starbucks.

A few months ago I bought at the Starbucks of the PSA Building a CD of piano jazz music entitled Upright, Grand and All Right. The first piece was Exit Music (For a Film) by the Brad Mehldau Trio and I was entranced by this piece, in which this Jazz pianist demonstrates an amazing mastery of counterpoint. The piece sounds like a jazzy Bach prelude, with the left hand playing the "bourdon" and the right hand the melody and, in time, an extraordinary improvisation. It starts with 40 seconds of a piano solo introduction of the melody. Then the drums comes in, very sweet and low key, and at one minute into the piece, the piano left hand starts the bourdon while the right hand gives variations on the melody as the double bass comes in as well, and you are immediately transported in a dreamy atmosphere. It goes on from there, with the pianist's left hand solid as a rock in the role of the bourdon of a baroque piece, while the right hand gets more and more creative and explores amazing improvisations resolving themselves in an avalanche of gorgeous piano sounds, until it quiets itself down slowly in a nice lullaby-like melody ... The whole thing lasts only slightly more than four minutes but you want it to go on forever.

Woww....

After this introduction, I bought from Amazon.com three CDs of Brad Mehldau, called The Art of the Trio. The third volume, Songs, is my favorite and contains this Exit piece, and nine other songs, all remarkable. It really is the art of the jazz trio, with an amazingly creative and talented pianist, and a solid accompaniment of elastic bouncing rhythms on the drums (oh, so subtle and intricate ... not too noisy ... just right) and beautiful improvisations and melody renditions on the double bass.

Bravo to Brad Mehldau, pianist, Larry Grenadier, bassist, and Jorge Rossy, drummer ... this is beautifully and so tastefully done ... You gave me and are still giving me much joy.

Friday, October 30, 2009

Strategic Error

The American public, by and large, is not ideological. Obama was elected president last year in spite of his record as a very liberal community organizer and senator, not because of it. Americans were weary of Bush, whom the liberal media loved to blame for everything, and the Republicans, and attracted by a charismatic, articulate, candidate who could speak a few good words (Hope ... Change), presented himself as a moderate, and offered redemption for the country's racist past.

But, once president, Obama revealed his true colors, surrounded himself with questionable people (such as the Green Jobs Czar Van Jones) and let the radical wing of the Democratic Party write bills that tilt the country towards socialism and ever growing government control (and national debt). On the international scene, he kowtows to the worst enemies of the US.

Domestically, Obama believes that he has a mandate to implement radical change, or has cynically decided that he has a unique opportunity to implement policies that would never have a chance under normal circumstances in the United States (never let a good crisis go to waste ...)

Internationally, he is naive and believes that extending a friendly hand will mollify dictators pursuing evil ends or bent on strengthening their positions by weakening the US.

These are strategic mistakes of huge proportions. He and the Democratic Party will pay dearly for it. Hopefully before the United States is damaged beyond repair.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Barack Obama - Nobel Peace Prize

I came back home from the office yesterday to the news of Barack Obama being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. I was scarcely recovering from my surprise when I received a message from a colleague "Isn't this the height of stupidity?". This summed this event up pretty well, but there is more to say and I immediately answered with "Indeed, I just heard about it. The Nobel Peace Prize ceased to have any meaning a long time ago. Just think about the fact that Yasser Arafat, a terrorist, got the prize! The Nobel Peace Prize committee is a bunch of lunatics, who have no sense of reality. Obama got nothing and will get nothing from his kow-towing to the thuggish regimes of this world, and the free world will end up being weaker because of his world view, but hey ... he got the Peace Prize.
You are right, this is a bad joke."

Except that it is not a joke ... It is real, unfortunately, and I see this as a pre-emptive move to dissuade Obama from changing his approach to foreign policy after the disastrous results that are sure to come from his current course. This is an attempt at defanging the US.

The Nobel Peace Prize Committee is appointed by the Norwegian Parliament. This is a leftist body that has bought into the new European religions (or pathologies): the belief in supra-national political organizations and multilateral diplomacy as the way to resolve or prevent conflicts, and the belief in the reduction of carbon emissions induced by human activity to fight climate change. The WSJ commented today: "George W. Bush may have retired from American public life, but the Europeans want the Yanks to know they never want to see his likes again. Counting Jimmy Carter in 2002 and Al Gore in 2007, this is the third Nobel Non-Bush Peace Prize".

There are two ways of looking at this news: by this decision, the Nobel Peace Prize Committee has either definitively demonstrated its irrelevance or contributed to weaken the United States.

My hope is that the former is true and that the US will continue to have the resolve to defend the ideals of the free world. I believe that Americans have a better grasp of reality than Europeans do, and that they will send to the White House as soon as they have a chance a new leader, one who would never receive the Peace Prize from this committee. Hopefully, this will happen before irreparable damage is done.

We know from history the bitter harvest of appeasement.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

The Death of a Sage

Irving Kristol died on September 18, at the age of 89. He was tagged with the label of "neocon" and had over the years contributed many articles on the opinion page of the Wall Street Journal. On September 19, the Journal, to honor him, published excerpts from these essays under the title of "Irving Kristol's Reality Principles".

I liked the first one in particular, published in 1972. Here it is:

Symbolic Politics and Liberal Reform, Dec. 15, 1972

"All bad poetry springs from genuine feeling," wrote Oscar Wilde, and I would like to suggest that the same can be said for bad politics ...

It seems to me that the politics of liberal reform, in recent years, shows many of the same characteristics as amateur poetry. It has been more concerned with the kind of symbolic action that gratifies the passions of the reformer rather than with the efficacy of the reforms themselves. Indeed, the outstanding characteristic of what we call "the New Politics" is precisely its insistence on the overwhelming importance of revealing, in the public realm, one's intense feelings—we must "care," we must "be concerned," we must be "committed." Unsurprisingly, this goes along with an immense indifference to consequences, to positive results or the lack thereof.


This piece of wisdom for all ages is seldom heeded by liberal politicians who keep designing reforms that have repeatedly resulted in the exact opposite of their intended purposes, but make them feel good about themselves. This behavior is, unfortunately, on display again in Washington ...

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Faces of Mumbai

During my short business trip in Mumbai, I had the good luck of finding the time, in between meetings and monsoon showers, to stroll around South Mumbai's sights. People always make the best pictures. Here are a few I took on July 20.

A not too comfortable and rather dangerous spot to have a nap ... but this man does not seem to care ...


In the middle of the esplanade between the Gateway to India and the luxurious Taj Mahal Hotel, a middle-aged man was roasting peanuts ... a dark snapshot of this poor man's life ...


At the front desk of the Taj Mahal Hotel, another picture of India, the successful, growing Indian middle class, is represented by this charming hostess.


I was not too sure whether this man was a customer or a fixture of the Taj Mahal Hotel, but he certainly had an interesting face and a remarkable hat.


Five-star hotels such as the Taj Mahal and the Oberoi are symbols of the growing Indian economy, open to the world and to the modernizing influence of trade. This is why they were targeted in the murderous rampage conducted by a band of terrorists on November 26, 2008, which resulted in 166 deaths. In the lobby of the Taj Mahal, an impressive memorial had already been erected a few months later with the names of the 31 people murdered here inscribed on a stelle.

Scenes on Chowpatty Beach at dusk, a popular Mumbai attraction.



Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Rain

Monsoon rain in Mumbai ... a constant drizzle, and heavy showers. From the lobby of the Oberoi, buildings across the bay are a faint line of ghosts shrouded in low hanging clouds.

High tide ... Under sunlight diffused by the leaden sky, a violent wind drives a cavalcade of frothing rollers to crash on the breakwater. Spray flies over the parapet and lands on the pavement, now a black reflecting pool. The monsoon's only colours are shades of grey.

In the short intervals when rain stops, a cloak of tepid air heavy with moisture still hangs about, fogging glasses and camera lenses fresh out of the cool hotel lobby.

On sidewalks, dark-skinned emaciated souls sit under flapping plastic sheets, precariously stretched over temporary stalls.

Back in Singapore this morning, the plane lands under heavy rain ...

Rain, non-stop tropical rain, I have not seen the sun in three days.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

The Attraction of Punggol Beach

Punggol Beach lies on the Northeastern coast of Singapore. It is one of the sites where Japanese massacred Chinese thought to have anti-Japanese sentiments, at the beginning of their occupation of Singapore during the second World War. The Japanese military chose remote places such as this one to perpetrate these crimes. On February 28, 1942, about 400 Chinese men were shot on Punggol Beach by a Japanese firing squad. It is now a National Heritage site.

I had seen on the Internet striking pictures of sunset on Punggol Beach. The colors had obviously been manipulated, but the photographs nevertheless created in my mind a vision of Punggol Beach as an idyllic place, where I would like to take pictures some day. I decided to go there late afternoon yesterday to catch the sunset.

Punggol is not so remote anymore. Thanks to the highly developed freeway and road network, no point in the island is at more than a 30-40 minute drive from any other point. After a fast ride on the Central Expressway (CTE) and Tampines Expressway (TPE), I reached Punggol Road, which runs straight North to the coast. Like many other spots in the island, signs of construction were everywhere, and Punggol Road is lined with new, dense, HDB flats. Only the last kilometer or so runs through an undeveloped wooded area, but even there I drove past a fenced-in construction site ... the Ministry of National Development must be working on a new project.

The road ends at a spot on the coast where there is a small jetty. Across the Johor Straits, the highly industrialized Malaysian coastline looked very close. I parked my car and walked along a path running left on the low dam lining the very narrow sand beach. After a kilometer or so, I found a spot where black rocks, almost level with the dam, provided an easy path stepping down to the beach.

The view across the Johor straits was depressingly industrial, from the right ...

to the left ...


If you keep your eyesight low, you can believe that you are in a place that deserves to be called a beach ...


Undeterred by the scenery, a man, perched on a rock, was fishing, but I wonder whether he would eat anything caught in these waters ...


A bride and bridegroom arrived with a photographer to take wedding pictures in the day's waning light.


Starting at 6PM (the sun sets around 7PM everyday in Singapore, since it is almost on the Equator), the place became almost crowded, as more and more photographers equipped with tripods were gathering in this spot to take pictures of the sunset.


I talked to a young man and commented that this was not much of a beach. He agreed but immediately added that the sunsets here were very beautiful.

Except for its luxuriant tropical vegetation, Singapore is devoid of natural beauty, and it is sad to see its inhabitants flock to places such as Punggol Beach to catch a sunset. But these amateur photographers are well versed in the wizardry of digital photography and can create computer-aided beauty more striking than natural beauty, and post it on the Internet. This is how I was snared into visiting this barren and ugly beach on a late Saturday afternoon.

Luck was not on my side; the sunset, which looked promising since clouds were at the rendez-vous, was not spectacular, and here is the best I could do, since I have not learned any wizardry ...

Friday, June 26, 2009

BREAKING NEWS: MICHAEL JACKSON IS DEAD - The Inanity of Commercial Cable TV News Coverage

Every morning, between 6:30 and 7:00, as I have my coffee before getting ready to go to the office, I like to watch the second half of the news hour presented by Bret Baier on the Fox Cable News network. It features a panel discussion of noteworthy political topics in the news. This panel is made of analysts who usually provide interesting insights that go beyond the thirty-second headlines we have sadly gotten used to. My favorite panelist is Charles Krauthammer, whose views are deepened by his professional training as a medical doctor and psychologist. When I see it in Singapore, this program is actually broadcasted at the same time in the evening on the other side of the world, prime time on the US East Coast.

Yesterday morning, when I turned the TV on, instead of Bret Baier and the panel, I was exposed to a “Breaking News” message announcing the death of Michael Jackson, floating over a continuous stream of pictures of a crowd gathered in front of the Los Angeles hospital where Michael Jackson had been pronounced dead a few hours earlier, and various clippings of his performing career. As usual this went on and on, with non-stop repetition of the same news (no details were known at the time except that the immediate cause of death was cardiac arrest) amid statements of various celebrities who felt compelled to rush to the scene.

One of them was the aging “Reverend” Al Sharpton. We have a black man in the White House, but the reverend’s line has not changed; he still milks white guilt for everything it is worth; this is his raison d’être. Apparently Michael Jackson was not taken seriously by the music industry at an early stage of his career. Perhaps Al would like us to believe that this racist neglect is the deep-seated reason for Michael Jackson’s weirdness, the plastic surgery that accentuated his androgynous looks, the outlandish clothes and bits of paraphernalia he adorned himself with, and the scandal of alleged child molestation that clouded his late years. More likely, however, the real reasons must be an abusive father and a performing career as a pop artist that started at the age of four.

Michael Jackson’s death, as a news item in a one-hour regular news program, deserves no more than a simple and short statement, for it is not an event that affects the state of affairs on the world stage in any way. For people who are interested, a one-hour in-depth and well researched program on his life and career could be produced and broadcasted at a suitable time after the event, when more is known about the exact circumstances of his death. The timing of this death invites questions, for it happened only a relatively short time before the staging of a series of concerts in London announced a few months ago as his farewell to the stage, and as a way to put behind him the dark clouds of suspicion over his involvement in the molestation of children in his LA home.

Why then did Fox News decide to cancel a regular in-depth news program primarily dedicated to political issues to make room for this continuous bombardment of incomplete non-news? It was not the only cable TV network that did this. I flipped through CNN and BBC World, and on those channels also it was all about Michael Jackson’s death, with the same pictures. There can be only one reason: commercial news channels thrive on the sensationalism and emotivity that drive the interests of the vast majority of TV viewers. For high ratings (and therefore high publicity revenues), there is nothing better than the untimely death of a controversial celebrity adulated by millions around the world.

Commercial broadcasting was supposed to bring variety and choice to the public. But, when it comes to “breaking news”, there is no choice: you see the same story pretty much told in the same manner on all news channels. In those times, I long for publicly funded broadcasting.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Homage to a young poet

In a frame hanging in the guest restroom of my in-laws apartment, typed on a piece of paper decorated by my wife when she was a child with undulating lines and pastel colors, this poem beguiles me to fly to Provence, whose colors, sounds, shapes and smells were so well captured by a 12 or 13 year old poet, my wife's brother ...

Provence

Red tile roofs and an azure sky
Life is a cypress standing green and high
To the roll of the breakers and the mistral's cry.

Ancient towers and a light brown hill
Pleasure is a peasant who's drunk his fill
To the pleasant flutter of an old gray mill.

Jagged cliffs and gnarled vines
Joy's making merry with a glass of wine
To the song of a child in the warm sunshine.

The love of a wife

Due to unusual circumstances, I live and work across the world from my wife, who cannot stand the climate of Singapore, and cannot live with what Singapore means to her. She comes to visit about twice a year, and never leaves before having first cooked meals which she freezes over for my future enjoyment.

There is perhaps no better expression of selfless love that a wife could give. And on her last trip, she added this lovely (and useful) touch: a list stuck on the door of the freezer.

Somehow, this made me think of a wonderful line at the end of An Ideal Husband: "If men married the women they deserve, they would have a very bad time of it".

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Book finds in Ahmadabad

I wrote in this space on the sounds and colors of India and the enjoyment I derived from them during a business trip to Ahmadabad in March. This post will be about the immense intellectual pleasures I derived, quite fortuitously, from the same trip.

At a break in a meeting, our Indian host suggested that we take some time off to explore a nearby bookstore. My Indian colleagues and I found Mehras across from and a short walk down the street from the office. Anuj suggested that I buy The White Tiger, which received the Man Booker Prize in 2008. I grabbed it, for I have no reason to doubt Anuj's recommendation of an Indian novel, and I continued browsing through the shelves of this large store. Not much space was dedicated to literature, but I suddenly stumbled upon a series of books by Bertrand Russell.

My initial surprise at this find was quickly dispelled by the realization that Russell was a contemporary of Mahatma Gandhi and an admirer of his pacifist and non-violent convictions, and that he must therefore share in the reverence accorded all over India to the father of the nation, particularly in Ahmadabad, the capital of Gandhi's native state of Gujarat. In fact, when I had visited Gandhi's ashram during a prior trip to Ahmadabad, I had noticed a Russell quote inscribed on a wall dedicated to remarks made by various prominent people on this great man.

Until very recently I neglected reading Bertrand Russell, for I dismissed him as a crank who used to sign with many other "leftist" intellectuals countless manifestoes protesting the Vietnam War, a war which, against the prevailing opinion, I found justified. I fortuitously discovered his writings a few months ago. A friend in New York was clearing some of his book shelves to make room for new acquisitions, and he gave my wife Wittgenstein's Poker - The Story of a Ten-Minute Argument Between Two Great Philosophers, by David Edmonds and John Eidinow. This book is a fascinating account of the lives of Ludwig Wittgenstein and Karl Popper until their encounter on the evening of Friday, 25 October 1946 at a meeting of the Cambridge Moral Science Club in a room of King's College, during which they had an argument that almost led to blows, as an exasperated Wittgenstein brandished at Popper a poker he had seized from the fireplace, at least if we believe Popper's version of the incident in his autobiography Unended Quest.

In Wittgenstein's Poker, I learned that Bertrand Russell had been elected in 1944 to a fellowship at Trinity College in Cambridge, where he had been a student half a century earlier, and that he was present at the meeting. The book mentions that "this was the only time these three great philosophers - Russell, Wittgenstein and Popper - were together." The reading of this book made me want to read Popper's The Open Society and its Enemies, but also awoke my interest in Russell, who appeared to be of a kindred spirit.

Looking for Popper's book, I noticed on the shelves of Kinokuniya's Philosophy section Russell's Why I am not a Christian. This title appealed to me and I bought the book together with The Open Society and its Enemies. After reading the latter (in which Popper brilliantly destroys the intellectual underpinnings of totalitarianism found in the writings of Plato, Hegel and Marx), I read Russell's book, which was an intellectual and esthetic delight.

Intellectual rigour and clarity are rare things. So is a luminous and elegant style. Russell possessed these to the highest degree, and he combined them with certainty in his convictions and a very British wit to produce an enormous outpouring of profound and eminently readable essays. And here on a shelf of a bookstore in Ahmadabad were three collections of essays, which I had not yet seen at Kinokuniya, Fact and Fiction, Unpopular Essays and Authority and the Individual. I could not resist their appeal.

I read Fact and Fiction first, for the title seemed relevant to what is going on today in Washington, where policies of the new Democratic administration appear to be driven more by fiction than by facts. The back cover gives a good summary of this book: "Its first section deals with the books which influenced Russell in his youth ... The second part is devoted to essays on politics and education. The third section is one of divertissements and parables ... Finally there are eleven essays and speeches concerned with peace and war ..." The first part ends thus:

" ... I resolved from the beginning of my quest that I would not be misled by sentiment and desire into beliefs for which there was no good evidence. The world is still full of people who when they feel a sentiment that they themselves judge to be beautiful or noble are persuaded that it must find some echo in the cosmos. They suppose that what seems to them to be ethical sublimity cannot be causally unimportant. The indifference to human joys and sorrows which seems to characterize the physical world must, they believe, be an illusion; and they fancy that the painfulness of certain beliefs is evidence of their falsehood. This way of looking at things seemed in youth, and still seems to me, an unworthy evasion.

This is recognized where simple matters of fact are concerned. If you are told that you are suffering from cancer, you accept medical opinion with what fortitude you may, although the pain involved to yourself is greater than that which would be caused to you by an uncomfortable metaphysical theory. But where traditional beliefs about the universe are concerned the craven fears inspired by doubt are considered praiseworthy, while intellectual courage, unlike courage in battle, is regarded as unfeeling and materialistic. There is, perhaps, less of this attitude than there was in Victorian days, but there is still a great deal of it, and it still inspires vast systems of thought which have their roots in unworthy fears. I cannot believe ... that there can ever be any good excuse for refusing to face the evidence in favour of something unwelcome. It is not by delusion, however exalted, that mankind can prosper, but only by unswerving courage in the pursuit of truth."

There is much to be admired in the second part dedicated to political essays, but the benefit of hindsight (reviewing the failures of the United Nations) proves that Russell had far too much confidence in the idea of a world government as a solution to continuing conflicts.

I am currently reading this book. One of these Unpopular Essays is An Outline of Intellectual Rubbish. In it, one finds many examples of Russell's biting wit. Here are a few: "Man is a rational animal - so at least I have been told. Throughout a long life, I have looked diligently for evidence in favour of this statement, but so far I have not had the good fortune to come across it ... "

"Politics is largely governed by sententious platitudes which are devoid of truth."

"I am persuaded that there is absolutely no limit to the absurdities that can, by government action, come to be generally believed. Give me an adequate army, with power to provide it with more pay and better food than falls to the lot of the average man, and I will undertake, within thirty years, to make the majority of the population believe that two and two are three, that water freezes when it gets hot and boils when it gets cold, or any other nonsense that might seem to serve the interest of the State. Of course, even when these beliefs had been generated, people would not put the kettle in the ice-box when they wanted it to boil. That cold makes water boil would be a Sunday truth, sacred and mystical, to be professed in awed tones, but not to be acted on in daily life. What would happen would be that any verbal denial of the mystic doctrine would be made illegal, and obstinate heretics would be "frozen" at the stake. No person who did not enthusiastically accept the official doctrine would be allowed to teach or to have any position of power. Only the very highest officials, in their cups, would whisper to each other what rubbish it all is; then they would laugh and drink again. This is hardly a caricature of what happens under some modern governments."

There is also in the same essay this wonderful invitation to listen to differing opinions, in which he does mention Mahatma Gandhi.

"For those who have enough psychological imagination, it is a good plan to imagine an argument with a person having a different bias. This has one advantage, and only one, as compared with actual conversation with opponents; this one advantage is that the method is not subject to the same limitations of time or space. Mahatma Gandhi deplores railways and steamboats and machinery; he would like to undo the whole of the industrial revolution. You may never have an opportunity of actually meeting any one who holds this opinion, because in Western countries most people take the advantage of modern technique for granted. But if you want to make sure that you are right in agreeing with the prevailing opinion, you will find it a good plan to test the arguments that occur to you by considering what Gandhi might say in refutation of them. I have sometimes been led actually to change my mind as a result of this kind of imaginary dialogue, and, short of this, I have frequently found myself growing less dogmatic and cocksure through realizing the possible reasonableness of a hypothetical opponent."

I just finished another essay in this collection, Philosophy and Politics, whose brevity (it is only 20 pages long) and humour do not detract from its profundity. It is a powerful defense of the liberal tradition and of the philosophy of Empiricism developed by Locke, against the philosophies that advocate dogmatic totalitarian systems. It makes, brilliantly, the same devastating criticism of Hegel that can be found in Popper's The Open Society and its Enemies. It ends with this inspirational conclusion:

"I conclude that, in our day as in the time of Locke, empiricist Liberalism (which is not incompatible with democratic socialism) is the only philosophy that can be adopted by a man who, on the one hand, demands some scientific evidence for his beliefs, and, on the other hand, desires human happiness more than the prevalence of this or that party or creed. Our confused and difficult world needs various things if it is to escape disaster, and among these one of the most necessary is that, in the nations that still uphold Liberal beliefs, these beliefs should be wholehearted and profound, not apologetic towards dogmatisms of the right and of the left, but deeply persuaded of the value of liberty, scientific freedom, and mutual forbearance. For without these beliefs life on our politically divided but technically unified planet will hardly continue to be possible."

I have yet to read this collection of essays, whose title indicates that they deal with the problem fundamental to all political philosophies: how to strike a balance between the need for social cohesion and individual freedom. Based on what I have read so far by Russell, I am confident that this book will give me many more hours of profound intellectual and esthetic pleasures, thanks to his clear and insightful mind, the diversity of his experiences (acquired over a long and productive life that spanned almost a century from 1872 to 1970), the passion of his convictions and his luminous prose.

I have here mostly exposed my admiration for Russell's thought and writing, but in all of these books, there is much matter to reflect on and debate, and I store this up in my unconscious for future writings ... when I finally find the time for serious writing. Such are the pleasures that can be found in rich and profound literature.

Friday, March 27, 2009

Transportation by bus in South Asia

Is it possible for westerners to imagine what it is like to travel in buses without air-conditioning in South Asia?

These pictures taken in India and Sri Lanka last week will perhaps give an idea of the attitudes and emotions this experience evokes.

Patience in Ahmedabad


Relaxation and anguish in Ahmedabad


Forbearance in Colombo

A trip to Ahmedabad

Business travel can be the source of enjoyable moments, especially when it takes me to India.

I stayed at the Taj Residency Ummed, near Ahmedabad's airport early last week. At the hotel restaurant, Narmada, I enjoyed excellent Indian cuisine on a background of entrancing live Indian classical music. I love a raga starting slowly with apparently aimless chords struck on the sitar until it breaks into a rhythm accentuated by the tabla. It is always a great pleasure to me to hear the two musicians pushing each other to new heights of frenetic invention.

And then there are India's street life and colors, which I unfortunately could capture only as I was driven in cars riding at 40 to 50 km/hr.

An improvised fruit stall on a wheeled cart


A man dressed in the fashion of Nehru


Colorful garlands of flowers for sale


Dogs and people fleeing the heat in the shade to be found under idle wheeled carts


A colorful teeming commercial life ... people living and eeking out a meagre subsistence from commerce in the streets of Ahmedabad


A couple on a motorbike, apparently happy to see me taking pictures of them


As an incidental tourist in Ahmedabad, I felt at times a little ashamed peeping into an extreme poverty which I found exotic and colorful from the outside, but which people living inside cannot wait to shed and leave behind (assuming they know that there can be a better life). Snatching those sights partially hidden in a car moving through traffic was a lot easier than walking and taking pictures more closely, which may have evoked reactions of disapproval if not outright hostility.

Commerce is everywhere conducted in small shops crammed one on top of the other, hardly more than holes in the wall, or on stalls on the pavement.



Friday, March 6, 2009

Our decadence

Michael Jackson is coming back for a last curtain call ... an affair that will yield enormous sums (I have heard some US$100 million plus ... perhaps given to charities) after several years spent fighting accusations of child molestation ... and this is all over the news from MSN online to BBC Radio. Here is a picture of him ... There are actually worse ones.

It is an unmistakable sign of decadence that such a figure can be a celebrity adulated by millions.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Reflections on the Thaipusam Festival

This pilgrimage of kavadi bearers reminded me of another religious celebration I watched in amazement on TV almost 6 years ago.

It was a few weeks after the invasion of Iraq. For the first time in many years (for these events had been repressed under Saddam Hussein), Shiites were allowed to perform their pilgrimage to one of the holiest Shiite sites in Iraq. On this pilgrimage, thousands of men walk for days rhythmically beating their backs and shoulders with heavy chains, while chanting their religious incantations. I was mesmerized by this sight and I immediately thought "what have we got ourselves into? Who are these people? And we want to establish a democracy in that country?"

There were similar acts of self-mortification in the celebration of Christian holy days ... and you can see some of them enacted in an Ingmar Bergman movie (The Seventh Seal): a procession of people flogging themselves ... but this was in the Middle Ages, 800-900 years ago. We do not see such scenes anymore in the Western world, certainly not in large cities.

Yet religious fervor still pushes Hindus to perform such acts in modern Singapore.

Here is a link providing more information on the festival:
http://www.etour-singapore.com/thaipusam-singapore.html

One thing struck me: none of these men seemed to suffer from their body piercings or from carrying loads that put pressure on many spikes anchored in their flesh. Some of them were even dancing around. What gave them that endurance, that forbearance of pain?

The white powder spread on the areas where the spikes entered their flesh must have been what prevented bleeding ... the article says that this is sacred ash!

Monday, February 9, 2009

An Instructive Sunday Afternoon in Singapore

This was an unusual Sunday afternoon for me ... a rich Sunday afternoon experience, full of Asian culture. An afternoon of contrasts, going from the serenity of a Buddhist sculpture exhibition in a planned museum visit to the rambunctiousness of a Hindu festival on which I stumbled by chance ...

I - Serenity in Stone

A while ago I noticed a small poster at the American Club with a photograph of a beautiful Buddha sculpture advertising an exhibit at the Peranakan Museum, "Serenity in Stone: the Qingzhou Discovery".

I decided this afternoon to go see this exhibit. It features thirty five pieces from an important archaeological find in 1996 in Qingzhou, in the Shandong Province of Northeastern China. They date from the 6th century AD. They are very well displayed in this small museum on Armenian Street and they are, I think, the most exquisite Buddhist sculptures I have ever seen.

The two samples below show how appropriate the title of the exhibition is.

A buddha with Apsala dancers.

A Boddhisatva


II - Thaipusam Festival

While driving to the museum, I had noticed a colourful Indian parade on the streets. After leaving the Peranakan Museum, I went to the area around Dhoby Ghaut where this was taking place and parked my car to witness this event.

This was Thaipusam, an Indian festival on which Wikipedia has this to say:

"Thaipusam (Tamil: தைப்பூசம்) is a Hindu festival celebrated mostly by the Tamil community on the full moon in the Tamil month of Thai (Jan/Feb) ... Pusam refers to a star that is at its highest point during the festival. The festival commemorates both the birthday of Lord Murugan (also Subramaniam), the youngest son of Shiva and Parvati, and the occasion when Parvati gave Murugan a vel (lance) so he could vanquish the evil demon Soorapadman.

Devotees prepare for the celebration by cleansing themselves through prayer and fasting. Kavadi-bearers have to perform elaborate ceremonies at the time of assuming the kavadi and at the time of offering it to Lord Murugan. The kavadi-bearer observes celibacy and take only pure, Satvik food, once a day, while continuously thinking of God.

On the day of the festival, devotees will shave their heads and undertake a pilgrimage along a set route while engaging in various acts of devotion, notably carrying various types of kavadi (burdens). At its simplest this may entail carrying a pot of milk, but mortification of the flesh by piercing the skin, tongue or cheeks with vel skewers is also common.

The simplest kavadi is a semi circular decorated canopy supported by a wooden rod that is carried on the shoulders to the temple. In addition, some have a little spear through their tongue, or a spear through the cheeks. The spear pierced through his tongue or cheeks reminds him constantly of Lord Murugan. It also prevents him from speaking and gives great power of endurance. Other types of kavadi involve hooks stuck into the back and either pulled by another walking behind or being hung from a decorated bullock cart or more recently a tractor, with the point of incisions of the hooks varying the level of pain. The greater the pain the more god-earned merit."













This was a noisy pilgrimage. Each kavadi-bearer was surrounded by a group of people (family and friends?) cheering him on, chanting and beating drums. The ones in front of him were walking backwards, carrying the script for their chants and addressing themselves to him.